1. Raw Material Preparation
The choice of raw materials is fundamental. Cotton, for instance, is sourced from cotton fields. After harvesting, it undergoes ginning to separate the seeds from the fibers. In factories, large-scale ginning machines efficiently remove impurities like leaves and twigs that might have been picked up during harvesting. Wool, on the other hand, is sheared from sheep and then scoured. The scouring process uses water and mild detergents to cleanse the wool of dirt, grease, and lanolin, restoring its natural softness and purity. Flax, used for linen production, is retted to break down the pectins holding the fibers to the plant stalk. This can be done through water retting (submerging the flax in water for a period) or dew retting (spreading it on the ground to let the elements work on it), after which the fibers are separated through mechanical means.
2. Spinning
Once the raw materials are prepped, spinning comes into play. In a traditional factory setup, spinning frames are used. For cotton spinning, workers feed the cleaned cotton fibers into the spinning machine. The machine draws out and twists the fibers simultaneously, creating a continuous strand of yarn. The thickness of the yarn can be adjusted according to the intended fabric end-use; finer yarns for delicate garments like silk-blend shirts, and coarser ones for heavy-duty items like workwear. Wool spinning has its own nuances. Given the crimped nature of wool fibers, the spinning process focuses on aligning these fibers in a way that maximizes the fabric’s warmth and elasticity. Skilled operators monitor the spinning frames, ensuring a consistent twist and even fiber distribution throughout the yarn length.
3. Weaving
Weaving is where the fabric truly takes shape. Traditional looms, which range from hand-operated ones in small artisanal setups to power looms in larger factories, are used. For setting up the warp, the longitudinal yarns are threaded through the heddles and reed of the loom. The heddles control the up-and-down movement of the warp yarns during weaving, while the reed spaces and straightens the warp threads. Once the warp is in place, the weft, or the transverse yarns, are inserted. In handlooms, this is done using a shuttle that the weaver passes back and forth through the warp shed (the opening created by the lifted and lowered warp yarns). In power looms, automated mechanisms perform this task at a much faster pace. Different weave patterns can be achieved. The plain weave, where the weft yarn passes alternately over and under each warp yarn, is simple and widely used for basic fabrics like bedsheets and cotton T-shirts. Twill weaves create a diagonal pattern, adding visual interest and often used for items like denim jeans. Satin weaves, with their long floats (where the weft yarn travels over multiple warp yarns before interlacing), result in a smooth and lustrous fabric, ideal for evening gowns and luxury linens.
